18 Edwardian Updo Methods for Historical Accuracy
Step into the elegant world of the early 20th century, where hairstyles were a definitive symbol of grace, status, and modernity. The Edwardian era (roughly 1901-1914) marked a dramatic shift from the heavy, structured looks of the Victorian age to softer, fuller, and remarkably intricate updos that emphasized a feminine, “Gibson Girl” silhouette. For historical reenactors, theatre costumers, vintage enthusiasts, or anyone captivated by the romance of the past, achieving an authentic Edwardian updo is about more than just looking the part—it’s about connecting with the artistry and social nuances of the time.
The Foundation: Edwardian Hair Preparation
Before a single pin is placed, historical accuracy begins with preparation. Edwardian women rarely washed their hair as frequently as we do today. Instead, they relied on brushing and elaborate care routines. To achieve the authentic volume and texture, start with day-old, slightly textured hair. Backcombing (or “ratting”) was the period-correct secret to the enormous volume seen in styles like the pompadour. This was achieved using a specialized tool called a “rat” – a cushion of false hair or even saved hair from one’s own brush. Modern alternatives include hair rats made from tights or mesh, or using volumizing powders and teasing at the crown.
The essential tools were a fine-tooth comb, long steel hairpins (often 3-4 inches long), and invisible hairnets called “hair lace” or “invisible nets” to secure ends. Marcel irons, introduced in the 1870s, were used for creating the iconic waves, but for many, rag curls or curling irons heated on a lamp were the norm. Remember, the goal was a soft, full, and buoyant effect, not the sleek, tight styles of later decades.
The Core Updo Techniques (1-8)
These eight methods form the building blocks of most Edwardian hairstyles. Mastering these will allow you to deconstruct and recreate even the most complex period photographs.
1. The Pompadour Roll: The quintessential Edwardian foundation. Hair from the temples and crown is brushed up and forward over a “rat” or padded roll to create a high, soft bulge above the forehead. It was often complemented by curls or a chignon at the back.
2. The Psyche Knot: A classic bun positioned very high on the crown, sometimes almost atop the head. The hair is twisted tightly and coiled into a compact knot, with ends tucked neatly and secured with pins. It appears frequently in fashion plates of the mid-1900s.
3. The French Twist (or French Roll): A sleek, vertical roll where hair is gathered at the nape, twisted upward, and folded inward to create a smooth, vertical line along the back of the head. The top was often left full or waved.
4. The Chignon: A general term for a knot or bun at the nape of the neck. Edwardian chignons were often softer, larger, and less precise than Victorian ones. They could be braided, twisted, or looped, and were frequently enclosed in a hair net.
5. The Figure-Eight Bun: Also known as the “Bun of Steel,” this involved creating two loops of hair that crossed over each other like an infinity symbol or figure-eight before being pinned securely. It was a sturdy base for adding ornamentation.
6. The Alexandra Coil: A regal style popularized by Queen Alexandra, involving a low, horizontal coil of hair that sat at the nape. The hair was braided or twisted first, then wound into a wide, flat coil that extended from ear to ear.
7. The Topsy Turvy: A fascinating style where the hair is parted into sections, with the back hair brought up to the crown and the top hair brought down to the nape, creating a “twisted” effect before being formed into a knot.
8. The Waterfall Twist: A romantic, cascading style where sections of hair are twisted and then dropped, creating a “waterfall” effect down the back of the head into the final updo, often leaving tendrils loose.
Incorporating Braids & Ornamentation (9-14)
Braids were not just for practical hold; they were decorative elements that showcased skill. Ornamentation was key to moving from day to evening wear.
9. The Coronet Braid: One or two long braids were coiled around the head like a crown. This was a popular style for younger women and for daywear, often seen with wide-brimmed hats.
10. The Braided Pompadour: The front hair was divided into two sections, each braided from the temple back over the crown, where they joined the back hair. This created a structured, textured foundation for the pompadour.
11. The Hair Bow (Pompadour Bouffant): Using a loop of hair or a separate hairpiece, a large, soft bow shape was created at the top or back of the head. This was an extremely fashionable and feminine look around 1910-1912.
12. The Invisible Hair Net Finish: After creating a chignon or knot, the ends were tucked and the entire style was enveloped in a fine, flesh-toned hair net (“hair lace”) to create a perfectly smooth, contained look without a single flyaway.
13. The Ornamental Comb Placement: Large, decorative combs (tortoiseshell, celluloid, or silver) were not just accessories but structural supports. They were thrust vertically or horizontally into the heart of the updo to anchor rolls and add drama.
14. The Use of “Switches” and Hairpieces: For the massive styles of the early 1900s, added hair was almost a necessity. “Switches” (long wefts) and “transformations” (full hairpieces) were pinned in to add volume, length, and complexity, especially for evening.
Signature Edwardian Styles (15-18)
These final four methods represent complete, iconic looks that combine the core techniques and ornamentation into the hairstyles that define the era in our imaginations.
15. The Gibson Girl Updo: The ultimate icon. Characterized by a full, high pompadour with soft waves or curls over the temples, flowing into a voluminous, loosely gathered bun or chignon at the crown. It exuded confidence and casual elegance.
16. The Marcel Wave Integration: This isn’t a single updo but the essential texturing technique. Tight, continuous S-shaped waves were created with a Marcel iron and then pinned into virtually any updo—particularly effective around the face and over the pompadour.
17. The “Lingerie” or Bedroom Bouffant: A slightly looser, more informal style for at-home wear or morning dress. It featured a softer pompadour and a simpler, lower chignon, often with more tendrils left loose around the face and neck.
18. The Evening Empire Updo: For the ballroom, hairstyles reached their zenith. Think extreme height from the pompadour, multiple braids or coils intertwined, and maximal ornamentation: aigrettes (feather ornaments), jeweled pins, bands of tiaras, and silk flowers were all lavishly used.
Achieving Authenticity: Final Tips
To truly honor historical accuracy, consider the context. Age, marital status, time of day, and social occasion all dictated hairstyle complexity. A young debutante would wear a softer, looser style than a married woman at a formal dinner. Daywear was simpler, often under a hat, while evening wear was elaborate and exposed.
Study period photographs, not just modern interpretations. Pay attention to the silhouette and proportion. Edwardian updos often aimed to elongate the neck and complement the popular S-bend corset posture. Practice is key—these styles were often created by ladies’ maids and require a familiarity with pinning and manipulating large amounts of hair. Start with good foundation techniques like a secure pompadour roll and a firm chignon, then build complexity with braids and ornaments.
By understanding and practicing these 18 methods, you move beyond costume and into the realm of historical recreation. You’re not just putting hair up; you’re weaving a connection to the skilled, beauty-conscious women of the Edwardian age, one elegant updo at a time.
